Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Nashville Fri-Sat - Parthenon & Home

Friday 11/1
Friday was All Saints Day, a holy day of obligation in the Catholic Church. Lazy heathens that Frank and I have become, we slept in while John & Sue and Joe & Margaret went to an early morning Mass. Did this delay out touristing endeavors? Not really. I am reminded of a quote by Joe's mother. I did research a source, but to no avail, so I feel justified in giving Joe's' mom full credit for this bit of wisdom:
Alms do not impoverish nor the Mass delay.
After lunch at home base, we set out to see the Nashville's full scale Parthenon. It was built in 1897 as part of the Tennessee Centennial Exposition and currently houses an art museum on its lower level. But first I asked the question "Why is there a full-scale replica of the Parthenon in Nashville, Tennessee?" Per a TripSavvy article on "Athens of the South"
Today's Nashville, Tennessee, is famous for its music. But before there was the Johnny Cash Museum, Nashville was known as the "Athens of the South." It was famous for its brains, not singing voice. By the 1850s, Nashville had already earned the nickname of the “Athens of the South” by having established numerous higher education institutions; it was the first American southern city to establish a public school system. By the end of the century, Nashville would see Fisk University, St. Cecilia Academy, Montgomery Bell Academy, Meharry Medical College, Belmont University, and Vanderbilt University all open their doors.
The Parthenon is central to Centennial Park – which also contains a one-mile-long multipurpose trail around Lake Watauga, a man-made pond featuring water fountains, ducks, and other aquatic creatures – and is located about 2.2 miles west of our home base near Taco Mamacita. We skirted the campus of Vanderbilt University to get there.


We parked near the west end of the lake and made our way around it in a counter clockwise direction and toward the Parthenon (aqua-blue teardrop-shaped marker on the following map).


Ducks and geese swam up to greet us, hoping for a handout probably. We enjoyed the lovely, sunny weather and the serene waterside stroll.






A sign along the shoreline told of the following facts about the pond:
  • Lake Watauga, like the Parthenon remains from the 1897 Centennial Exposition
  • Largest of originally four lakes, six gondolas and native gondoliers from Venice were available for water excursions during the exposition
  • Lake Watauga was stocked with bass for fishing
  • Lake Watauga was briefly home to two alligators but the reptiles were removed when ducks and geese began disappearing; no humans met with misfortune
  • Waterfowl began to reproduce uncontrollably and were donated to local shopkeepers for retailing to local families for Christmas dinners. The practice was altered to charitable donations from the cities welfare department before being discontinued entirely
  • The water's surface reflects the Parthenon


Another sign gave a few historic facts about the Tennessee Centennial Exposition, held on the grounds for the present Centennial Park.
  • The Tennessee Centennial Exposition was officially opened on May 1, 1897 by President William McKinley.
  • The extravaganza was to fuel the city’s economy while celebrating 100 years of Tennessee statehood.
  • The exposition drew about 10,000 visitors daily to a city whose population was 95,000
  • The exposition closed on October 30, 1897 after a six-month run and 1.8 million attendees



We left the side of the pond and came upon the Parthenon from its side. Per an artsy.com post Why Is There a Full-Scale Replica of the Parthenon in Nashville, Tennessee?
Despite ... intricate attention to detail, there are some significant differences between the Parthenon in Nashville and the one atop the Acropolis in Athens. For one thing, guests walk through a park to approach the Tennessee version ... and they encounter it from the building’s side or front. The original Parthenon was intentionally situated so that visitors could only approach it from behind.



We walked around to the far end where the museum entrance is. This impressive edifice is used for events such as weddings and consequently the architectural details are obscured somewhat by the tenting.

  

Once in the entrance lobby we were issued a map. The Lower Level had the following demarcations: 1) Entrance, 2) Lobby 3) Gallery Lobby, 4) East Gallery, 5) Cowan Gallery. 6) West Gallery

The front part of the lower level – items 1), 2), and 3) on the map – consisted  of the architecture of the Parthenon and the history of preparation for the Centennial Exhibition displayed within glass cases blended with sepia photos along the walls depicting pavilions and attractions within the Centennial Grounds.


This crane model is a 1/10th size replica of the wooden crane used to build the Parthenon in Athens, Greece. Large pieces of marble some weighing 11-15 tons were extracted from Mt. Pentelicon and transported using a sledge roller system and then ox-drawn carts. The Nashville Parthenon, originally built of wood and plaster for the Centennial, was later reconstructed of sturdier and more permanent concrete, supported by public donations, collected over years from dedicated citizens in a "nickels and dimes" approach.


The rear part of the lower level – items 4), 5), and 6) on the map were art galleries. In my personal opinion, phrase it as you will, the paintings were "not my cup of tea", "did not float my boat", or were either obscurely or boringly abstract. What I did find somewhat interesting, was how the paintings were displayed. Rather than a huge room with paintings spaced far apart about the perimeter as I'd come to expect of a typical art museum, each painting was hung in its own small niche, separated from its neighbor by thick stub walls. These were mostly landscapes. Other than for this curiosity of presentation method, I was regretting proposing to the group that we attend this "art museum".


All changed however when we ventured up to the second level. The six points of interest on the second level were 7) Naos, 8) Elgin Casts, 9) Athena, 10) Treasury, 11) Bronze Doors, and 12) Pediment Models. We were in awe when we  encountered this 42 foot high statue of the goddess Athena in the naos – defined as the inner chamber or sanctuary of a Greek or other ancient temple. That is Joe gazing up at her. The size scale is truly evident.





The 24-foot-tall double doors at each end of The Parthenon are one-foot thick and each weighs seven and a half tons; but reportedly, almost anyone can open and shut them with minimal effort. They are secured from motion in the display.




Per the following sign:
In Greek mythology, Athena is the goddess of wisdom and the useful art and the protector of cities. Her title Athena Parthenos refers to her status as a maiden goddess; the name for the Parthenon is derived from this epithet and translates into English as "The house of the maiden". ... The frieze across the front of the marble base depicts the birth of Pandora, whose name means "all gifts".


The intricate details in her 15-ft diameter shield were amazing; I took photos of her shield from several angles.





The upper four corners of the Parthenon are guarded by gryphons:
creatures purported to have the head and wings of an eagle and the body and tail of a lion. In legend Gryphons were referred to as hounds of Zeus and protected a stream in north Greece that flowed with gold. ... It is its function as guardian of treasure that made the gryphon an appropriated figure for the four corners of the Parthenon's roof



We did not travel to Greece to see the ruins of it, but we saw what the Athens Parthenon would have looked like in all its prior-decay glory. After one last pose of us outside the Nashville Parthenon, we would move on and complete our circumnavigation of the pond within Centennial Park.


I love this mood-evoking photo of Frank and John walking beside that long line of pillars on the side of the Parthenon. I never would have expected this experience from a trip to Nashville, Tennessee.


We continued our stroll counter-clockwise around the pond and came upon this bronze statue commemorating the Suffragettes with there cry "Votes for Women". Of course this brought to my mind the song Sister Suffragette from the Disney movie Mary Poppins, courtesy of YouTube.


Sue, Margaret, and I joined their ranks and put forward our feet the better to follow in their footsteps



We completed the one mile loop around Centennials Park's Lake Watauga, noting mile markers along the way. The lake was named for an area in western North Carolina that was the origin of a number of early settlers of Nashville.






After Centennial Park and the Parthenon, we drove north to look at the grounds of the Grand Ole Opry theatre.


We were too late in the day to take a tour, but I had been told by a local that the grounds were gorgeous and not to be missed. The area directly around the theatre was nicely landscaped but after we walked around a bit we were less than impressed with the far expanse of parking lots. Maybe we were not in the right area of the resort, although we had drive around lost for quite a while attempting to reach a location that we ourselves had ill-defined. We saw the outside of the Grand Ole Opry House and the nearby plaza but that was about it. If we were anticipating a stupendous, remarkable finale to our visit, it had fizzled. Perhaps we should have sought out a honky tonk to soak up the flavor of some rising star our last night. Alas, none of us are real drinkers and so frequenting a bar did not appeal to the majority. The closest we had come, was to walk though a couple during our downtown tour.



But, snatching victory from the jaws of (a temporary) defeat, we found a fantastic place to have our final dinner together, the Bavarian Bierhaus. Perhaps not a honky-tonk but it did have music and libations and great food.



In the entrance was a display of beer steins under lock and key. Each cage door was intricately carved with a lion symbol. But why a lion? 



That symbol is on the Coat of Arms of Bavaria. Per a Wikipedia article on heraldry
The lion is a common charge in heraldry. It traditionally symbolises courage, nobility, royalty, strength, stateliness and valour, because historically it has been regarded as the "king of beasts".


From the restaurant's website I learned that the steins are for personal use of each owner when he frequents the restaurant.  The caged cupboard is for use by members of The Stein Club
You may have seen a wall of wrought-iron cages flanking an ornate brass sink at the front of our Bierhall. This is where our regular Guests keep their treasured Bier Steins under lock and key. A Stein Club is a traditional feature in many Bierhalls throughout Bavaria. Our lockers are patterned after those found in a Bierhall in the village of Aying (pronounced “eyeing”), about ten miles outside of Munich.
That lion motif was repeated on the front cover of the elaborate leather bound menus.


The food was great, the atmosphere was lively and jovial, the service was quick and friendly. For me, part Polish in heritage, a live band playing polka music – accordion and all – was an additional huge bonus of The Bavarian Bierhaus. One of the songs the band, Polkawägon, played was Apples, Peaches, Pumpkin Pie, a polka tune played at Frank's and my wedding 44 years ago. You can hear a Frank Yankovic rendition of Apples, Peaches, Pumpkin Pie on YouTube.



We posed for a few photos in authentic Bavarian outfits before leaving. Looks like John & Sue may have had a few too many beers. They are confused in their posed positions. But probably not. It is merely John's goal to have some final fun.



After driving back to home base, we went our separate ways to pack, reconvened for a bit of conversation, and retired somewhat early. We had flights out of Nashville BNA the next morning scheduled at 8:30am, 8:45am, and 9:00am. Yes – fifteen minutes apart from each other. Now was that just luck or exquisite planning? We did discuss briefly proposals for where to go next year for our get-together, reviewing where we'd been in past years, 2013 - 2019. Before that, I was not blogging and my memory does not go back any further.

A Canadian rail trip was one proposal for 2020. It also looks like from the map there is also a lot of the southern continental United States from coast to coast where we have not visited. Hmm... TBD.



Saturday 11/2
I do not know how we managed to luck out, but Frank and I had direct non-stop flights from Oakland to Nashville and back from Nashville to Oakland – a rarity, indeed. They were pretty much on time, too, getting back to Oakland. Frank and I were at the luggage carousel 7 on Saturday, around noon, awaiting our bags.



We picked up our luggage without any glitches, and headed out to the car in the airport parking lot. Aah... just look at that blue sky... It feels good to be back home in sunny California.



Frank and I enjoyed our time with our college friends, but we will also be happy to relax after this vacation. We look forward to having an equally great time with these smiling faces again next year. I am not in the South now, so I can be sincere when I say, bless their hearts!

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